Wednesday

Learning about "Green Gold" by Margaret Eggers

Today, we went to the hacienda Sotuta de Peón. We learned about the process of converting henequen into fiber.  The tourists consisted of people from both Mexico and the United States, so the tour guide translated the tour from Spanish to English and back again. On the tour, we learned that the fiber produced at the hacienda was used for sandals, fishing line, bags, and hammocks. We also learned about the family that lived at the hacienda and their extravagant lifestyle. The family even had its very own crest. The crest could be seen on chandeliers and the fine china plates throughout the hacienda.  After touring the house, the group was then able to watch the process of converting henequen to fiber.

There was a steam machine that brought the large, cut leaves from the plant. These leaves were put through the machine and cut into thin strands of fiber. Once the henequen had been cut, the plant was put on laundry lines to dry.

Once dry, the henequen needed to be separated because it became quite tangled. We were able to watch the process of separating the henequen in order to untangle the plant.  Basically, the henequen was thrown over a “comb-like” apparatus and pulled through to separate the knots. At one point in the tour, they allowed us to try separating the henequen, however, we quickly learned it is not as easy as it looks. One must be very strong in order to do this portion of the job. As you can tell in the photos, it is not easy!

Once the henequen is separated, it can be used to make many of the items mentioned earlier. We saw the process of making rope, which basically involved the workers spinning the henequen. As the tour went on we learned the there was no documentation of how much henequen was made a day. Once the henequen has been separated, it needed to be compressed into bundles, like hay, in order to pack and ship it. 

The tour guide told us that when the hacienda was in full operation, there would have been about 4-6 machines that they used to compress the henequen. What was upsetting to learn is that today, fiber is imported from Brazil to Mexico. Merida no longer exports henequen around the world like they once did in 1915. When the industry started going under, machines were imported form Germany in 1961 in order to try and save it. Instead of separating the fiber manually, as discussed earlier, these machines were able to separate the fiber with the push of a button.  Soon these machines were used to make rope in many different sizes, including burlap. 

We learned that there were over 800,000 plants (leaves) cut a week. Those who cut the leaves at first were from Mexico, however, the industry soon had so much demand that they had to import slaves from Korea. These plants were so sharp that they could blind or even stab a person, which was why many of the slave’s hands were badly mangled. At one point, the Mayans used these leaves as weapons. Each slave needed to be very careful while cutting these leaves. After we were finished touring the hacienda, we were taken on a horse drawn carriage around the fields of henequen. There was so much henequen to be seen!

As we toured the fields, we stopped and talked to a man who has lived on the hacienda for many years. We heard his story and what is was like to farm the henequen.

We were then brought to one of the cenotes on the land and were able to swim. The cenotes are absolutely stunning. After the tour we sat and had lunch at the hacienda. Dr. Fiser ordered us a variety of appetizers and entrees (as he always does) for everyone to split. He  did the same with the desserts too! From corn tortillas, to well flavored pork, to ice cream, the food was delicious. Overall, the day at the henequen plantation was very informative, and we were able to learn about the rise and fall of “green gold” in Merida.




A Rainy Visit to Uxmal and Bob Gow's Hacienda by Bennie Jefferson

Our group woke up this morning to head to the Uxmal ruins. It was pretty rainy, and I thought that might put a damper on the trip somewhat. However, the ruins were absolutely beautiful, even in the rain! The best part was the view from the Governor’s Palace. From this vantage point, we could see the entirety of Uxmal and the beautiful jungle surrounding it.


Afer our visit to Uxmal, we went to visit Bob Gow, former president of Zapata corporation, on his hacienda. There is some suspicion that he was once in the CIA disguised as an exotic fruit importer from Columbia. Needless to say, he is an interesting man. Bob Gow bought his hacienda, Xixim, in 1985 when both the floors and roof were missing. He has worked on it for a number of years, and the hacienda has been returned to its a original state (with a few modern additions such as a pool).

Like most haciendas in Mexico, Xixim has three cenotes (underground pools) that would carry the water to supply the fields as well as the inhabitants of the hacienda.

During our visit with Mr. Gow, we enjoyed a delicious traditional Yucatecan meal that featured pork, rice, and steamed vegetables. Mr. Gow took a great interest in each of our personal stories, and gave us some valuable life lessons. Bob Gow is a believer in being prepared to change at a moments notice, and he has used the hacienda as a think tank for many of those ventures including both a talapia and bamboo farm. He stressed to us the importance of experimentation and not being afraid to take chances, for chances are what makes life worth living. 

A Visit to the Governor's Palace by Chandler Parker


This afternoon, a group of us toured the Governor’s Mansion in the town square. When we walked into the courtyard, it was decorated for Christmas with a beautiful 14 foot tree.


As you walked up the stairs, you could see the famous murals on the walls. Each mural was a representation of the history of Merida. Many depicted the struggle that the Mayan people faced against the Europeans and Spaniards. There were images of Yucatecan historians who were important in the reform of the country's government and politics.




It was interesting to see artistic representations of Mayan citizens being persecuted by the Europeans and Spaniards. The Mayan people were enslaved for many years, and were abused or publicly killed when they tired to escape. However, it was interesting to see how far they overcame this oppression through visual representation.


An Afternoon of Bullfighting by Christopher Lawerence


January 1st was a day that I will always remember.  A few of my classmates and I decided we wanted to experience a bullfight firsthand.  At 4 p.m., the first bull was released and the fights began.  


Throughout the course of the night, there were 6 bulls that entered the ring. Ultimately, all 6 bulls were killed and taken out of the ring by two horses. There were a few events, however, that changed my whole mindset on bullfighting. I learned that the matadors work together to take the bull down, and that each matador tries to appease the judge who sits atop the arena.  Secondly, I saw several men from Central America attempt to grab a bull as it was running at them. This event is a Portuguese tradition called the “pega.”


In doing this, the men stand in a single file line and attempt to pile on top of the bull in order to stop it.  At this particular fight, a few of the men failed to stop the bull and ended up being severely injured.  This brings me to my final lesson.  These men put themselves in harm’s way just to appeal to a crowd and to please a single judge.  I was astonished to see so many young children in attendance that were cheering these men on.  After going to the fight, I learned that the Mexican culture is in favor of daring events, but they also love to see their countrymen succeed.  Despite such a learning experience, I do not think I can ever sit through a bullfight again. However, it was a cultural experience I will never forget!