Wednesday

Learning about "Green Gold" by Margaret Eggers

Today, we went to the hacienda Sotuta de Peón. We learned about the process of converting henequen into fiber.  The tourists consisted of people from both Mexico and the United States, so the tour guide translated the tour from Spanish to English and back again. On the tour, we learned that the fiber produced at the hacienda was used for sandals, fishing line, bags, and hammocks. We also learned about the family that lived at the hacienda and their extravagant lifestyle. The family even had its very own crest. The crest could be seen on chandeliers and the fine china plates throughout the hacienda.  After touring the house, the group was then able to watch the process of converting henequen to fiber.

There was a steam machine that brought the large, cut leaves from the plant. These leaves were put through the machine and cut into thin strands of fiber. Once the henequen had been cut, the plant was put on laundry lines to dry.

Once dry, the henequen needed to be separated because it became quite tangled. We were able to watch the process of separating the henequen in order to untangle the plant.  Basically, the henequen was thrown over a “comb-like” apparatus and pulled through to separate the knots. At one point in the tour, they allowed us to try separating the henequen, however, we quickly learned it is not as easy as it looks. One must be very strong in order to do this portion of the job. As you can tell in the photos, it is not easy!

Once the henequen is separated, it can be used to make many of the items mentioned earlier. We saw the process of making rope, which basically involved the workers spinning the henequen. As the tour went on we learned the there was no documentation of how much henequen was made a day. Once the henequen has been separated, it needed to be compressed into bundles, like hay, in order to pack and ship it. 

The tour guide told us that when the hacienda was in full operation, there would have been about 4-6 machines that they used to compress the henequen. What was upsetting to learn is that today, fiber is imported from Brazil to Mexico. Merida no longer exports henequen around the world like they once did in 1915. When the industry started going under, machines were imported form Germany in 1961 in order to try and save it. Instead of separating the fiber manually, as discussed earlier, these machines were able to separate the fiber with the push of a button.  Soon these machines were used to make rope in many different sizes, including burlap. 

We learned that there were over 800,000 plants (leaves) cut a week. Those who cut the leaves at first were from Mexico, however, the industry soon had so much demand that they had to import slaves from Korea. These plants were so sharp that they could blind or even stab a person, which was why many of the slave’s hands were badly mangled. At one point, the Mayans used these leaves as weapons. Each slave needed to be very careful while cutting these leaves. After we were finished touring the hacienda, we were taken on a horse drawn carriage around the fields of henequen. There was so much henequen to be seen!

As we toured the fields, we stopped and talked to a man who has lived on the hacienda for many years. We heard his story and what is was like to farm the henequen.

We were then brought to one of the cenotes on the land and were able to swim. The cenotes are absolutely stunning. After the tour we sat and had lunch at the hacienda. Dr. Fiser ordered us a variety of appetizers and entrees (as he always does) for everyone to split. He  did the same with the desserts too! From corn tortillas, to well flavored pork, to ice cream, the food was delicious. Overall, the day at the henequen plantation was very informative, and we were able to learn about the rise and fall of “green gold” in Merida.




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